HER SCENE

HerScene | The Goddesses of Louisville Food

Dana McMahan

If you tune in to the food world, you probably caught the ruckus recently when Time magazine crowned the gods of food — every last one of them men. The back-and-forth responses quickly devolved into a train wreck, but a powerful voice rang through the noise.

Gabrielle Hamilton, the exceedingly talented chef who owns Prune in New York City and is author of the brilliant "Blood, Bones & Butter," responded in The New York Times, likening the Time piece to a master kicking a dog.

"I am fully aware that I am not a God of Food but I am equally sure that I am not a dog on a leash. For me the most moving and powerful and creative act of courage of all is to fully live your life and do your work and offer all of yourself, even in the margin. Waiting to get on a list, working to get on a list — this is a time- and soul-suck with no good end.

To slip the leash and leave the master standing there holding it while you, meanwhile, are around the corner throwing an awesome party with all of your friends is the greatest act of defiance I can think of."

I had the privilege of meeting Gabrielle at her restaurant, and while it was a great honor, I had to reflect that we have a number of incredibly talented women here in Louisville who are also offering all of themselves – not to land on any list, but because they love their work. So this guide then is intended not to be a list, but a celebration of just a few of the women who are part of throwing the awesome party that is Louisville's culinary scene.

Kathy Cary, Lilly's Bistro

Lilly's creator and chef,  Kathy Cary, poses for a portrait in her restaurant. February 19, 2014

Proud to say she's 60, Kathy, six-time James Beard nominee, continues — with an abundance of enthusiasm — to seek out new challenges. One constant at her acclaimed 26-year-old bistro, though, is the unswerving dedication to what she dubs rock star farmers. And this is no trendy affectation — Kathy grew up on a farm and has honored their work since day one. She also grew up around bourbon, meaning that, happily, you'll find a celebration of this spirit in her cuisine as well.

Lilly's is a must for dinner; the menu changes frequently depending on what Kentucky's seasons bring, but don't miss Lilly's frites with Green Goddess as a pre-dinner nibble, and look for a scrumptious pork dish from a local farm.

1147 Bardstown Road

(502) 451-0447

http://www.lillyslapeche.com

Erika Chavez-Graziano, Jacknife Cafe

Erika Chavez-Graziano, owner of Jacknife Cafe. Feb. 4, 2013.

Erika credits her grandmother with her philosophy of taking ingredients you have access to and turning it into food that nourishes your loved ones. Making food is a selfless act, the young cook feels, and says with sincerity that it's lovely to care for people. Her fans find it lovely, too, when they relish her made-with-love chocolates and the homey, thoughtfully prepared dishes at her sophisticated Southern cafe. Jackknife should definitely be a midday stop (before or after shopping at Butchertown Market where it's housed). Cover all your bases with the lovely-for-lunch Breakfast for Dinner salad.

1201 Story Ave.

(502) 883-3228

http://www.jackknifecafe.com

Susan Hershberg, Wiltshire on Market,

Bakery and Cafe, and Pantry catering

Susan Hershberg is the owner of the Wiltshire Pantry Bakery & Cafe.    
Feb. 12, 2014

It's readily apparent that Susan springs from a family of cooks and bakers — she's never more at home than in the kitchen. Family stints abroad as a child helped to inspire her vibrant and wide-ranging offerings today. The unifying element is her passion for the community of artisans and growers she works with, and a drive to continually innovate and surprise her diners.

Fortify yourself with breakfast at the Cafe; think flaky, Paris-perfect croissants, or if decadence is the name of your game, go for any of the ever-changing pastries on tempting display.

636 E Market St.

(502) 589-5224

http://wiltshirepantry.com

Annie Pettry, Decca

Decca chef Annie Pettry is seen at the East Market Street restaurant in Louisville. Feb. 18, 2014.

Newcomer Annie brought the flavors of California to Decca's kitchen with little fanfare for herself, but with resounding success. Her straightforward approach to classic techniques and sustainably sourced ingredients (she just likes to make food that makes people smile, she says) belies the whopping talent she's packing. You won't find her singing her own praises — but no need when her diners are so quick to join the chorus.

Decca is the place to be for dinner — try to nab a seat outside, and head straight to the vegetables on the menu. Every last dish on the menu is delectable, but you'll be astonished at just how delicious veggies can be with the right hand.

812 East Market St.

(502) 749-8128

http://deccarestaurant.com

Coby Ming, Harvest

Executive Chef Coby Ming poses for a portrait at Harvest. February 18, 2014

Coby's respect for ingredients and insistence on knowing the person who grew and nurtured the food coming into her kitchen means she's doing more than feeding you a stellar meal. With her seasonal and honest-to-goodness local sourcing, she's building connections between the diner, the kitchen and the farmer. And with dishes such as her legendary buttermilk fried chicken as enticement, it's a connection you'll savor.

Don't miss Harvest for brunch, where you can feast on biscuits and gravy you'll likely remember long after you've forgotten the name of the Derby winner.

624 E Market St.

(502) 384-9090

http://www.harvestlouisville.com